SCUBA Diving Kit
There are a variety of manufacturers and types of dive kit available. Below we cover the basics but every diver in SASAC will be happy to give you recommendations and discuss the options and on occasions will demonstrate their kit.
Mask
Your mask is probably the first and one of the most important pieces of scuba equipment you will buy. It is imperative that it is comfortable, it is good quality and it fits your face shape properly, so expect to spend something in the region of £50. (If you buy a cheap mask, that is exactly what you will get).
You will need to equalize your mask during your dive, hence your mask should have an enclosed prominent nose pocket to allow you do this. Generally, it does not matter whether it has a single lens mask or two lenses. What is important is that the glass is tempered.
Mask (slap) strap
If you have long hair or prescription lenses fitted to your mask, you will probably want to get a neoprene cover for your mask strap. This is called a slap strap and it comes in two versions – a sleeve that fits over the latex / rubber mask strap, or one that replaces the existing latex / rubber mask strap.
A slap strap is kinder on long hair – this can sometimes get a bit tangled or caught in a latex strap. It is suggested that you sew or write your telephone number or email address on the inside of the neoprene strap so that in the unlikely event that you lose your mask, someone just might find it and contact you to return it. This is definitely worth doing if you have prescription lenses fitted to your mask.
Fins
When it comes to scuba diving, there are two types of fin. A full-foot fin also known as a pool fin, and an open-heeled or boat fin. Some divers like wearing full-foot fins for pool training, or when diving warm water.
Pool fins are generally cheaper to buy. The fin has a non-adjustable foot pocket, therefore this pocket must fit your foot in a snug and proper manner. It should not pinch, nor should your foot slop about it in.
It is impossible to walk to a dive site in fins, therefore divers sometimes need to wear shoes when shore diving because rocks and pebbles can hurt bare feet, and in some instances, sand can be too hot to walk over. The downside of this is that you have to leave your shoes on the shore during your dive. The solution? Most British divers tend to favour wetsuit boots and dive boat fins.
A boat fin has an open heeled rigid foot pocket, and the fin is secured to the foot by pulling an adjustable rubber or spring strap over the boot heel. Generally, boat fins have a textured sole inside the foot pocket that helps stop the boot from moving inside the pocket. Boat fins also have anti-slip pads on the underside of the fin to provide some traction and grip when moving around on boat decks, or when climbing dive ladders.
On balance, pool fins are a nice piece of equipment to have, however they are not essential.
Boots
We wear booties or wetsuit boots for warmth and comfort. Boots physically protect our toes and feet from rough surfaces, or from being rubbed by boat fins. Boots also provide thermal protection from hot and cold surfaces.
You will find that you are not always jumping into the water straight from a boat. Sometimes you walk into the water from the shore, so look after your feet and get yourself a decent pair of diving boots.
These are comfy, hard-soled, neoprene boots. You will find them useful for wearing around a resort and invaluable when shore diving because some of the areas you will want to snorkel or dive are not that kind to bare feet. Wetsuit boots are the way to go when walking over rocky shores, stone, gravel, pebbles or hot sand.
Other features you might want to consider include a fin-strap retainer lug, and a zip. You will find a boot that has a zip on the inside of the ankle is easier to don and doff than a pull-on boot. It is now also possible to get dive boots that include an ergonomic footbed. This insole helps provide heel support, additional cushioning and impact protection when carrying dive gear.
Goody bag
You will need an easy solution for carrying your core kit to the pool, the beach or to a dive boat. We call this a “goody bag”. Typically a goody bag is a strong durable net or mesh bag that allows excess water to drain off your gear. And because it is a net bag, you can easily see and locate the equipment that you have stashed in it. And when you have finished diving for the day the mesh weave allows the air to circulate when storing your gear between dive trips, thus helping to control mildew and eliminate odours.
Timing device
When we dive we absorb dissolved nitrogen in our body. It is important that this is tracked. We can do this in two ways. By using a special table, a depth gauge and a dive watch, or by diving a computer. Both methods will tell us how long we can safely dive for.
Divers today tend to use a dive computer because of the amount of data it gives us at a glance. However, a dive watch is still handy because it can act as a backup timing device.
Should you decide to buy a dive watch you must ensure that it is “water-resistant” and rated to a depth of 100 metres. A “waterproof” sports watch has a very shallow depth rating, and it is possible that it can be flooded. You should also check that if the watch is analogue, that it has a unidirectional bezel so that you can see how long you have been diving.
As a BSAC member, we will teach you to safely plan and conduct your scuba dives using tables and a computer.
Tanks
Obviously to go diving you need a supply of air. Tanks come in a range of sizes. The tanks are measured according to the amount of air they hold in litres, with common sizes being 10L, 12L and 15L. As you get more experience you may find yourself using more technical setups including twin sets, stages and ponies. Prices for tanks can vary as its highly dependant on the cost of the materials they are made from.
Regulators, gauges and hoses
Regulators allow you to breath the high pressure air in your tank and need to a type that is designed to work in the water temperatures found in the UK – so its important to do your research first.
Pressure gauges show how much air you have in your tank and depth gauges show your water depth.
BCDs
On the surface and underwater you control your buoyancy using a Buoyancy Compensator (BC) also known as a Buoyancy Control Device (BCD). Essentially a BCD is a jacket with an inflatable bladder inside. They come in standard sizes for both males and females.
Wetsuits & Drysuits
Jumping into British waters is obviously going to be chilly so you’ll need something to keep you warm. There are two main options here – wetsuits and drysuits.
Wetsuits – as you may guess mean you’re going to get wet – they keep you warm by trapping a layer of water between you and the suit. This traps heat to keep you warm. For British waters you’ll need a 7mm suit at minimum.
Drysuits on the other hand keep you warm by trapping a layer of air around you. To help keep you warm you wear an undersuit that provides layers underneath (as you would in cold weather). You can pick up drysuits starting from around £650 new but the cost of an under-suit is extra. If your thinking of buying a second hand drysuit – try it on first as they suit needs to fit well. There are a wide range of suppliers of drysuits – and everyone has an opinion as to which ones are the best, and they change over time.
